The inverted cone shaped dosa with lots of ghee never seemed to stop rolling. People ignored went about eating idli’s, dosas and pongal on one everyday morning. Then went on to the counter to get their morning dose of filter ‘kapi’. The coffee was dark brown, slightly bitter with just the right amount of sugar to not make it sweet. This was 7.30 am. To a regular job going Bangalorean like me, it was just past mid night.
Walking out of the small café, there are auto rickshaws, the drivers of which on noticing a person with a bag just go on ‘madam auto’, ‘sollungha madam’, ‘yenghe madam?’. It dosen’t matter to them if you know the local language or not, I’d rather want to say national language ;). They just make sure with their insistant noise for sometime would make you turn around and shoo them or ask them how much. I am quite amused, as to how a tamilian makes you understand their language rather than try to speak your language. Same scenario in Bangalore would sound like: ‘Madam auto?’, ‘English madam?’, ‘want madam? Auto madam?’, ‘yellighe madam?’, ‘cheppu madam’ and more blah blah blah. The same question of do you want to hire a rickshaw in many different language, assuming the possible native by gauging a person’s look.The heights of localization in terms of language is what surprises me. The look on a person’s face when one speaks Hindi, the boards on shops which are in pure chaste Tamil, the road names are in Tamil as well.
The temples are still cynosure for the people in the traditional Tamil land. The early birds catch a song and smell the fresh air and hear the sound of chants in the temple. The cows, priests and the flower vendors are a common sight. Priests are a clan that, as a Bangalorean, I get to see only when I visit a temple. But here you see them around temples, stores, airport, on bikes, in cars, shopping, walking and pretty much everywhere. The names of temples, the number of deities, the number of customized prayers, the type of offering for each deity, the permutation is unnerving.
The family is still the most visible group in Chennai. Appa, amma, and the kids are what you will see often on the visitor spots. Not to miss the paati and thatha. Another common sight, is the ratio of old people to young. The sight of the older people in Chennai is much higher. Either, the old people are very healthy and active or there are just too many of them.
The range of colours is predominantly bright. Rather, I’d say bright is a color used commonly in Chennai. You would not miss the bright yellow mangoes or the bright red flesh of a cut watermelon on a Bangalore road. But in Madras, it blends with the colors around. Either the vendor has a brighter color on or the customer, or the movie poster on the wall behind. It could be all at one go too. Now you know why our Quick Gun Murugan has shades on.
The traffic is smooth flowing, not many jammed spots. But the swaying turns on a road is amusing. You have to take a right turn after a nasty lane change and then quickly move to the left to make get to a signal to take a right turn. Note: All these are traffic rules. Nothing beats the maneuvering skill required at a T-nagar junction at the shopping place. People don’t care about vehicles, so do the vehicles – they don’t care about vehicles or people on the road. It’s a milieu of shopping stores, people, the humidity and heat, vehicles – include autos, rickshaws, autos, bikes, cars, autos, cycles, vans, cabs. Yes, autos is repeated, that is how they appear in that area. Simply multiplied.
Fried food is a surprise element in Chennai. People relish it at 11 am and 11pm, on a crowded Ranganathan Street and twilight filled Marina beach. Sweaty hot 11am? Beats me. We Bangaloreans crib to go out for a 36 C and drink plenty of TCs (Tender Coconuts) to keep cool. Chennai on a warm 40C has the tamizha walking around the crowded street and munching on a hot bajji.
The heat, the most obvious thing in Madras is something that is round the clock and year. All you do is sweat on a nice morning, sweat on the hot day, sweat at lunch, sweat during a bath, sweat at night, sweat, sweat, sweat. This is like the omnipresent thing for anything in Chennai. The beach, I must admit is the best of it all. Even with the crowd and the day’s heat, a night on the beach is a chill pill. But hey, here I am…the hot warm air that engulfs you as you move away from the shore. Phew.
Chennai, for all the glory of the beach and the wonderful everything. Vanakam.